Punto centrale della collezione Iceberg è la traduzione del vestire maschile al femminile. Ridimensionato, il dettaglio maschile diventa indispensabile per dare carattere ai tessuti fluidi che modellano il corpo.
Così, la fodera che caratterizza l’interno manica della giacca maschile diventa femminile attraverso intarsi e ricami visibili grazie al risvolto; il gilet diventa prezioso tramite l’applicazione di paillettes all over; blazer indossati su short e tacchi vertiginosi tramettono decisione e sensualità. La rete, rubata al mondo sportivo, viene riproposta nelle trasparenze e negli accessori, trasformando cinture e scarpe in gabbie di metallo smaltato che avvolgono e sottolineano la silhouette. L’attitudine sportswear diventa sensuale grazie ai decisi blocchi di colore e all’utilizzo di sete fluide, che convertono cargo, tute e canottiere in un inaspettato mezzo seduttivo, mentre le stampe cut-out aggiungono autoironia a una donna che non ha paura di mostrare grinta e personalità.
Sono rimasta molto colpita da questa collezione che, pur non essendo il canonico pizzo fimmina du sud di Dolce e Gabbana, o la power woman di Armani, è coerente nel suo complesso; inoltre, reinterpreta i leit motiv di Iceberg, vale a dire l'intarsio e il color block, in modo giovane, attuale. Sarà la crisi, sarà che the normal way of life è il trend del momento, ma l'aria che si respira in passerella è più realistica, "portabile". Non avrei problemi a immaginarmi uscire vestita così la prossima estate, mentre sarei un po' in difficoltà a fare un tranquillo aperitivo indossando i pizzi di cui sopra, anche se fosse alla Maison Moschino.
Iceberg central point of the collection is the translation of the masculine style in feminine dress. Resized, the men detail is indispensable to give character to the fluid tissues that shape the body.
Thus, the cover featuring the interior of the men jacket sleeve become feminine by means of inlays and embroidery visible through the flap, the vest becomes valuable through the application of all-over sequins, blazers worn over shorts and high heels shown decision and sensuality. The grid, stolen from the sporting world, is revived in the transparencies and accessories, making belts and shoes enameled metal cages that surround and emphasize the silhouette. The sexy sportswear attitude becomes decided thanks to the use of blocks of color and flowing silks, which convert cargo, track suits and tank tops in an unexpected seductive vehicle, while the cut-out prints add irony to a woman who is not afraid to show spirit and personality.
I was very impressed by this collection, though it is not the canonic lace "south italy woman" by Dolce and Gabbana, or Armani's "power woman"; it also reinterprets the leitmotif of Iceberg, inlay and colored blocks, so young now. Because of the crisis, or because the normal way of life is the trend of the moment, but the air we breathe on the catwalk is more realistic, "portable". I would not have problems to imagine myself dressed like this next summer, while I'd be a little embarrassed taking a quiet drink while wearing the lace above, even if it was at the Maison Moschino.
Iceberg central point of the collection is the translation of the masculine style in feminine dress. Resized, the men detail is indispensable to give character to the fluid tissues that shape the body.
Thus, the cover featuring the interior of the men jacket sleeve become feminine by means of inlays and embroidery visible through the flap, the vest becomes valuable through the application of all-over sequins, blazers worn over shorts and high heels shown decision and sensuality. The grid, stolen from the sporting world, is revived in the transparencies and accessories, making belts and shoes enameled metal cages that surround and emphasize the silhouette. The sexy sportswear attitude becomes decided thanks to the use of blocks of color and flowing silks, which convert cargo, track suits and tank tops in an unexpected seductive vehicle, while the cut-out prints add irony to a woman who is not afraid to show spirit and personality.
I was very impressed by this collection, though it is not the canonic lace "south italy woman" by Dolce and Gabbana, or Armani's "power woman"; it also reinterprets the leitmotif of Iceberg, inlay and colored blocks, so young now. Because of the crisis, or because the normal way of life is the trend of the moment, but the air we breathe on the catwalk is more realistic, "portable". I would not have problems to imagine myself dressed like this next summer, while I'd be a little embarrassed taking a quiet drink while wearing the lace above, even if it was at the Maison Moschino.
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